The LC6 trigger on the Ruger M77 Hawkeye is a mechanically sound system that responds well to a spring swap. The job takes about 20 minutes, requires basic tools, and the result is a pull weight that lets the trigger finally perform the way the mechanism was always capable of. Here is how to do it right – for both the HUNTER and TARGET springs.
Before You Start – HUNTER vs. TARGET
The installation procedure is identical for both springs. The difference is entirely in the spring rate – and what that means for how you use and test the rifle afterward.
The HUNTER spring (~2.5-3 lb) leaves more margin for field conditions, cold weather, and varied handling. After installation, run the standard safety test sequence and you are done.
The TARGET spring (~1-2.5 lb) demands more from the safety testing and more from the shooter. At 1-2.5 lb, every test in the sequence carries more weight – particularly the bump and drop tests. If the rifle is going to be used at the bench, it needs to pass those tests at bench-level pull weight. No shortcuts on the TARGET spring setup.
For context on choosing the right spring and understanding pull weight tradeoffs, see the Ruger M77 Hawkeye platform overview and the trigger spring fundamentals article on this site.
Tools You Need
- Correct action screwdriver for your M77 – most Hawkeyes use a hex or slotted action screw; confirm yours before starting
- Torque wrench – recommended for reassembly
- Small punch set – 1/16 and 3/32 inch
- Lightweight brass or nylon hammer
- Small flat screwdriver or dental pick
- Needle-nose pliers
- Non-marring mat or folded shop towel
- Magnetic parts tray for pins and small parts
- Phone for photos before any disassembly
- Trigger pull gauge – required, not optional
Safety Before Any Tool Touches the Rifle
- Remove the magazine if present
- Move the safety to the middle position (bolt operable)
- Open the bolt fully and lock it to the rear
- Look into the chamber and verify empty
- Put your finger in the chamber and confirm empty
- Remove all ammunition from the bench
- Muzzle pointed safely for the entire job
Once the action is out of the stock, do not pull the trigger for any reason until the controlled safety tests at the end. Every time, no exceptions.
Step 1 – Remove the Bolt
With the safety in the middle position (bolt operable, trigger blocked), open the bolt and pull it fully rearward. On the Hawkeye, the bolt comes out with the safety in the middle position – this is by design and is correct. Pull the bolt out and set it on the mat where it will not roll.
Step 2 – Remove the Action From the Stock
The Ruger M77 Hawkeye uses two action screws – one in the front and one in the rear of the trigger guard assembly. Locate and remove both. Note which position each came from if there is any chance they differ in length. Lift the barreled action straight up and out of the stock. Set the stock aside. Barreled action goes on the mat.
Step 3 – Study Before You Touch
Place the barreled action on the mat with the trigger group facing up. Look at the LC6 trigger assembly. Locate the trigger housing, the trigger shoe, and the pins. Find the trigger spring – it sits inside the housing and tensions the trigger shoe. Note which end is where and how it contacts the trigger components.
Take photos now. Top view, both sides, close-up of the spring. The LC6 trigger has a small sear spring and related components that need to go back correctly – photos before disassembly cost nothing and save real time.
Step 4 – Drift Out the Trigger Pins
Using the punch and light hammer taps, drift out the pins retaining the trigger housing. On the Hawkeye, drift pins from right to left – confirm the direction on your specific rifle visually before striking. Tap, do not pound. These are precision parts in a precision receiver.
With the pins removed, the trigger housing can be accessed. Work slowly and keep every pin and small part in the magnetic tray as it comes out.
Step 5 – Remove the Factory Spring
Locate the trigger spring inside the housing. Study how it sits – which end is up, what it contacts, how it tensions the trigger shoe. Take a photo if anything looks ambiguous. Use the pick or needle-nose pliers to carefully remove the factory spring and set it in the parts tray. Keep it.
Step 6 – Install the New Spring
Orient the new spring exactly as the factory spring sat. Same direction, same end in the same position, both ends fully captured in their seats. The spring should tension the trigger shoe the same way the factory spring did – just with less force.
This is the step that determines whether the job goes well or not. If the spring looks like it is bridging a gap, sitting at an angle, or not fully captured at either end – stop and correct it before continuing. Compare against your photos. A correctly seated spring tensions the trigger shoe smoothly and the shoe returns positively when you move it manually.
Step 7 – Reassemble the Trigger Housing
Reinstall any internal components in reverse order, then seat the trigger housing back in the receiver correctly. Drive the pins back in – fully seated, flush where they should be flush. Check that every pin is fully home before moving on.
Move the trigger shoe manually with your finger. It should travel smoothly and return positively under spring tension. It should feel noticeably lighter than the factory setup already.
Step 8 – Return the Action to the Stock
Lower the barreled action back into the stock, confirming it seats correctly with no binding. Install the action screws and bring both to hand-tight before applying torque – work them up together, not one fully tight while the other is loose. Torque to the manufacturer’s specification. Reinstall the bolt by inserting it with the safety in the middle position and pushing it forward until it seats.
Measuring Pull Weight
Confirm the rifle is unloaded. Move the safety to the fire position. Cock the rifle by cycling the bolt. Attach the trigger pull gauge to the center of the trigger shoe. Apply smooth, straight rearward pressure and note the reading. Repeat five times and average.
Expected ranges:
- HUNTER spring: 2.5-3 lb
- TARGET spring: 1-2.5 lb (with light sear polish: ~1 lb and below)
If the result is outside the expected range or inconsistent between pulls, stop and investigate before safety testing. Check spring seating and pin installation before proceeding.
The Four Safety Tests – Complete All Four
All tests on an unloaded rifle. All four must pass before the rifle is used with live ammunition. This applies to both springs – but pay particular attention on the TARGET spring, where reduced tension means every test carries more weight.
Function check: Cock the rifle and press the trigger. Clean release, correct reset. Cycle and repeat eight to ten times. Every pull identical.
Safety check: Test all three safety positions on the Hawkeye with the rifle cocked and unloaded. Position one (fully rearward) – bolt locked, trigger blocked: neither should function. Position two (middle) – bolt operable, trigger blocked: bolt opens for unloading, trigger does not release sear. Position three (forward, fire) – full function. All three positions must behave exactly as designed.
Bump test: Cock the rifle with safety in the fire position. Hold firmly and strike the buttstock solidly against your palm several times – deliberate impacts, not taps. The firing pin must not release on any impact.
Drop test: Cock the rifle and, from two to three inches above a padded surface, let the butt make firm contact. Repeat several times. The firing pin must not release. On the TARGET spring especially, this test is not a formality.
Fail any test: do not use the rifle. Reinstall the factory spring, correct the problem, or take it to a gunsmith. A failed safety test is not a tuning issue. It is a stop-everything problem.
Long-Term Care
Keep the LC6 housing clean and lightly lubricated. Avoid heavy grease – it traps grit and can affect function in cold weather. A light application of gun oil on metal contact points after any trigger work is sufficient.
After field use in dirty or wet conditions, blow out the trigger housing with compressed air. Once per season, confirm that pull weight and safety function still feel normal. Any unexpected change – lighter pull, inconsistency, spongy safety – warrants a bench inspection before the rifle goes out again.
Does this installation guide cover both the HUNTER and TARGET springs?
Yes. The installation procedure is identical for both springs – same tools, same steps, same sequence. The difference is in the spring rate and what that means for safety testing. The TARGET spring at 1-2.5 lb requires the same tests as the HUNTER spring, but the bump and drop tests carry more weight at lighter pull weights. Both springs must pass all four safety tests before the rifle is used.
How does the three-position safety on the Hawkeye work with the new spring?
The three-position safety is mechanical and unaffected by trigger spring tension. After installation, test all three positions: fully rearward (bolt locked, trigger blocked), middle (bolt operable, trigger blocked), and forward (fire). All three must function exactly as they did with the factory spring. If any position behaves differently, stop and investigate before using the rifle.
How do I remove the bolt on a Ruger M77 Hawkeye?
Move the safety to the middle position (one click forward from fully safe). With the safety in the middle position, open the bolt and pull it rearward and out. The Hawkeye is designed to release the bolt with the safety in the middle position – this is correct and by design. Insert the bolt the same way for reassembly.
Will this guide work for earlier M77 models before the Hawkeye?
The general procedure applies to earlier M77 variants – the action removal, spring replacement, and safety testing sequence is the same. Details of the trigger housing and pin locations may vary slightly between production years and models. Confirm what you are looking at before moving any parts, take photos before disassembly, and perform the complete safety test sequence regardless of which M77 variant you own.
What is the correct torque for Ruger M77 Hawkeye action screws?
Ruger specifies action screw torque in the Hawkeye manual – consult your specific manual for the correct value as it can vary by stock configuration. If you do not have a torque wrench, snug and even is better than guessed-at tight. Bring both screws up together rather than torquing one fully before starting the other.
What should I do if my Hawkeye fails the bump or drop test?
Stop immediately. Do not use the rifle. Reinstall the factory spring and retest. If the problem persists with the factory spring, or if you cannot identify the cause, take the rifle to a qualified gunsmith. A sear that releases under impact is a serious safety issue, not a tuning variable. The rifle does not go back to use until it passes all four tests.